Ich habe mit einem Uhrmacherschraubenzieher und Stocherei 340 Euro an Apple gespart

War unvorsichtig von mir, das iPad auf einer Platte abzulegen, auf der auch das Launchpad und ein Keyboard standen – beim Musikmachen muss man auf diesen Geräten nun einmal herumhämmern. Unmerklich setzte sich das iPad in Bewegung, und – klatsch.

Die gute Nachricht: Das Display hat überlebt. Auch das Gehäuse war nur wenig vermackt – das angeschlossene USB-Kabel zum Hub hatte den Sturz gedämpft. Und die Kamera hatte sowieso schon länger nicht mehr fokussiert. Dass es auch eine schlechte Nachricht gab, wurde mir erst zuhause klar, als ich das Ladekabel einstöpseln wollte und scheiterte: Der Lightning-nach-USB-Adapter, an dem das iPad hing, war in der iPad-Buchse abgerissen.

Na gut: da, wie gesagt, die Kamera ohnehin eine Macke hatte, habe ich einen Termin bei den Apple-Reparaturleuten vereinbart, im Apple-Sprech: an der Genius Bar. Den üblichen Zirkus mitgemacht: dumm rumgestanden, wieder weggeschickt worden, angestellt, nach 15 Minuten festgestellt, dass der Termin nicht stimmte, netterweise einen neuen bekommen, weggegangen, wiedergekommen, gewartet. Es ging ja nur um eine kurze Begutachtung.

Nach etwas Wartezeit kommt eine Endzwanzigerin auf mich zu. Sie duzt mich penetrant. Sie schaut sich das iPad nicht wirklich an – nimmt nur die Macken und Kratzer in ihr Protokoll auf. Das müsse wohl ausgetauscht werden, ich müsse nur noch unterschreiben.

Auf dem Reparaturauftrag steht ein Betrag von sage und schreibe 340 Euro.

Unterschreib endlich: Der Reparaturauftrag mit dem abgebrochenen Steckerstück, der das iPad „irreparabel“ machen sollte

Der Preis schockiert mich. Ich habe noch sehr genau im Kopf, dass ein iPad Air 2 derzeit für etwa diesen Betrag gehandelt wird und mit 128GB Speicher nicht arg viel teurer ist. Ich lehne ab, den Auftrag zu erteilen. Damit hat die Endzwanzigerin offensichtlich nicht gerechnet, aber letztlich ist es ihr auch egal.

Für 340 Euro, denke ich, kann man eine Menge pfuschen. Eine Pinzette verbiegt, ebenso zwei Nadeln, mit denen ich versuche, das abgerissene Steckerstück herauszuziehen. Ein kurzer Blick zu iFixit verrät mir, dass die Buchse zwar nicht verlötet ist und sich deshalb gut austauschen lassen müsste – dass es aber ganz und gar kein Spaß ist, ein iPad Air 2 auseinanderzunehmen. (iPad-Gehäuse erhitzen, Kleber lösen und so.) Also stochere ich auf gut Glück weiter – und schaffe es schließlich nach einer guten halben Stunde mit einem winzigen Uhrmacherschraubenzieher, das Bruchstück herauszuhebeln. iPad ans Ladekabel – läuft. Glück gehabt.

Die Moral? Nicht die übliche Geschichte von den bösen, unfähigen Computerladenstudis. Die waren zumindest tendenziell sehr hilfsbereit, und sie haben halt ihre Regeln. Trotzdem bin ich froh, mich dem Apple-Imperium nicht unterworfen und nur mit meinem Werkzeug einen kleinen Sieg erkämpft zu haben: I’m not a number, I’m a free nerd!

Und die Geschichte meiner Hassliebe zu Apple ist um eine Episode reicher.

Using an Arturia Beatstep (or something like it) to control the Matrix-1000

MIDI controllers

Hi, I just bought and upgrade a matrix 1000 to 1.20 , I saw your video on youtube where you control yours with a Beatstep Arturia.. I’d like to control mine with my key lab but I don’t know how to do that ! can you help me ?

I tried to build a template for the key lab with Arturia software (midi control center) but all button and fader on the keylab are midi cc , and if I assigne midi cc 21 for the cutoff it doesn’t work.. I don’t know how to make rnpn with Arturia controller..

If you did with the Beatstep I’m pretty sure it can work with key lab..

Clement

Hi Clement, I hope you don’t mind answering your mail in public. Using simple MIDI CCs won’t do the trick; you’ll have to use NRPN. (To be honest, I don’t know whether the Keylab can be programmed to send NRPN but like you, I am pretty confident.)

What is this NRPN thing after all?

You do know about MIDI CCs. This is one type of MIDI command where you send a controller number – 0 to 127 – followed by the value for that parameter. Quite a lot of synths assign a CC number to each and every parameter, for example the Roland JX8P synths, or my wonderful Creamware Pro-12 VA synth. The big advantage being that those synths do not only receive MIDI CC values, they also send them – when you change a parameter or switch to a different patch. A fader box attached to the synth can be made to show the settings for each individual parameters, like my Pro-12 panel for the iPad. Spoiler: The Matrix-1000 won’t do this.

The problem with MIDI CC: sometimes, 128 controllers won’t be enough, especially as quite a lot of them have pre-defined meanings. It is pretty crowded in CC-Land.

To overcome this, NPRN was defined – same idea as CC, different way to do it. The main difference being that there are not 128 possible controller numbers but 16,384 of them – and, by the way, they can send a much higher range of values; instead of 0-127, values from 0-16,383 are possible. But, another spoiler, not with the Matrix, and not with Arturia controllers, either.

You see, NRPN is not really a different MIDI command. It is a way to use the MIDI CC command to transmit a larger range of values. A full NRPN sequence is not one MIDI CC command, but four: using four designated CC controller numbers to send a more complex message.

  • CC 99 is the higher part of the NRPN controller number (the MSB).
  • CC 98 is the lower part of the NRPN controller number (the LSB).
  • CC 6 indicates the MSB part of the value: the coarse setting of the parameter.
  • CC 38 indicates the LSB part of the value: the fine setting of the parameter.

As MIDI can only transmit values from 0-127, the wider ranges for parameter numbers and values are transmitted in two parts.

How do I use this with the Matrix and Arturia?

The Matrix with V1.20 interprets NRPN as follows:

  • The NRPN controller number is the number of the parameter you wish to change. As Matrix parameter numbers are in the range of 0-98, this means that the first part of the message – CC 99, the higher part of the controller number – is always 0.
  • The NRPN value is transmitted as a coarse value – via the MSB of the value message.

So to transmit the value for the DCO MIX parameter (#20), you’ll have to set the controls in Arturia’s MIDI Control Centre to:

(fixed a mixup here 07-Mar-18, thanks Jörg!)

  • BANK MSB -> 0
  • BANK LSB -> 20 (the number of the parameter)
  • DATA ENTRY -> COARSE (transmit the value in the MSB)

Arturia MIDI Control Center screenshot

If you managed to get a grip on NPRN, you may have noticed that Arturia is actually cheating: The NPRN transmission from the Beatstep does not make use of the full range possible. But at least the Matrix won’t make use of the higher resolution anyway.

More on the Matrix-1000 with V1.20 and NRPN here.

Extended iPad control panel for Creamware Pro-12 ASB synth

Certainly the last post in this blog this year – a happy 2018 to all of you, with loads of creative endeavour and technical discoveries!

Version 1.2 of my iPad control panel for my brilliant virtual Prophet, the Creamware/Soniccore Pro-12 ASB. Read here about it. The new version does not only allow access to all the hidden parameters you cannot reach by turning the synth’s knobs, it shows the actual settings for the sound as well – a true addition if you want to look at what the sound actually does. Once again, you need the TB Midi Stuff app for it to work, which is about 4 Euros.

You can get it from my dropbox or from the TBMS forum thread.

Cheat Sheet: How to play notes (and chords) on the Launchpad

A tutorial for using the Novation Launchpad Pro as a synth keyboard.

What this is about

Last summer, I borrowed a Launchpad to take along on my holiday, and fell in love with it. The Launchpad is a new instrument; you have to relearn the movements of your fingers. These considerations and patterns are supposed to make learning easier.

Launchpad Pro sitting on top of my piano

I am not much of a musician, nor do I know that much musical theory. The few musical skills I use these days are mostly self-taught. When I started discovering synthesizers, I got myself a table of the basic minor and major chords and their inversions. This helped me produce the first harmonies, just like someone learning the first chords on a guitar.

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What makes synth keyboards turn yellow?

Spoiler: It may be the gig bags.

My magnificent Waldorf Blofeld has been shelved for a couple of weeks in the place where we usually jam – but as one of my fellow musicians had a broken finger, we could not make music together and I just left the Waldorf synth in that place, a basement belonging to a church. Then, on Saturday, we finally met again. I unpacked the Blofeld and was stunned to discover that it looked like this:

The keys had developed a slight yellow tint, well visible in contrast with the pearly-white Blofeld housing. A daylight view of the synth confirms this:

The tint is not very strong yet but it is plain ugly – and I know that even with a strong bleach agent and lots of sunlight, there is no guarantee to get them white again. Not mentioning the time it would take to take the keyboard apart. So I was shocked and hurt – and started looking for a culprit.

Good conditions?

The Blofeld is not the first synth that turns slightly yellow: A Korg R3 I once owned and sold to my friend, and which has been stored away in the basement room for months, has really, really yellow keys by now. So which conditions are responsible for making the keys (and the synths) that ugly?

To clear the most obvious suspicion: it has nothing to do with humidity. The cellar room in the church’s basement is next to the heating facility for the church, so it is dry, warm, and sufficiently aired. But there is another factor: Both synths had been stored in gig bags.

Soft bags like the one for my Blofeld are cheap, lightweight, and available in all possible sizes – but my theory is that these gig bags air a chemical agent that slowly tints the plastic keys. A likely contender: a brominated flame retardant. Cheap plastic textiles like the ones used for those gig bags are required to be made from flame-retardant material, so the agent is there, maybe something like the common TBPPA that is supposed to be harmless in comparison to other flame retardants. We know that they diffuse into the air – almost every human in the Western world contains traces of bromide from flame retardant. What that will do to our health is another rather unsettling issue, but I am pretty sure that it makes my synths ugly.

What is there to do?

Apart from the Blofeld and the Korg R3, there are a couple more synths in the basement room. My friend keeps his master keyboards in plastic bags, and they have not been affected by the yellowing disease – so if you are about to store synths, it may be a good idea to put them into a closed trash bag before putting them into the gig bag. I also noted that another keyboard in another gig bag is not affected – maybe due to another flaming retardant used, but more likely because I never closed that gig bag, so the chemicals just diffused into the air (and into our lungs) rather than into the keys.

I will have to write to Thomann about this.

V2.0: A Teensy-based MIDI Controller

Building my own wheels for the Launchpad Pro – once again, with style.

Two weeks ago, I started a little sunday afternoon project, sucessfully building my first own MIDI controller – a pitch bend/mod wheel/midi merge device to serve as a companion to my new Launchpad Pro. Using an Arduino, a prototyping board by SparkFun, and community-made code, I succeeded with surprisingly little effort – the most time-consuming part was finding and fixing the errors I had clumsily soldered into my pathetic excuse for a MIDI interface. But it worked!

Launchpad Companion Controller in actionAs they say, the worst thing that can happen is that you succeed. The quick and easy success made me hungry for more – I started a MIDIfication project for my JEN SX-1000 monophonic synth, based on a Teensy, another microcontroller board that can be used within the Arduino development eco-system but is much better suited to MIDI/USB applications.

V2.0: A Teensy-based MIDI controller

This is actually a side project to that. I looked at my self-made controller and noticed that it is usable but not very playable – I wanted real wheels for the Launchpad, not sliders. So I decided to redo a V2.0 of the controller, based on the Teensy.

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MIDIfying Jenny – A Call To Arms

Isn’t it about time my beloved Jenny got her own MIDI interface?

JEN SX-1000 front with ATMEGA chip

To be sure, microcontroller-based interfaces for the JEN SX-1000 do exist. Apart from the commercial CV/Gate solutions by Kenton, there is Neil Johnson’s keyboard interface design. But even if you can get hold of the PCB – a supplier in the JEN SX-1000 group on Facebook had a batch made – the design has an intimidating parts list, and takes some serious time to build.

Is it possible to do it simpler? Emboldened by my success building a small Arduino-based MIDI controller, I decided to start a midification effort that is

  • easy to do (requiring only basic soldering skills, if any)
  • easy to get (by using components that you can buy on Amazon if you have to),
  • easy to develop (using standard solutions from the Arduino community),
  • easy to schedule (because the project is divided up into little steps, each of which is a small afternoon sub-project with instant gratification),
  • easy to participate (by contributing own ideas and code for parts of the project).

I will describe the basic layout of the MIDI upgrade kit project here. Each step, i.e. each sub-project, will then be treated in a new post, depending how fast I (or the community) get them done.

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Caveat

Nachdem ich gerade billigen und schnellen Erfolg beim Bau eines eigenen MIDI-Controllers hatte und deshalb ersthaft darüber nachdenke, ein größeres Analogsynth-MIDIfizierungs-Projekt mit Jenny anzugehen: eine kleine Erinnerung.

"Wenn einer, der mit Mühe kaum/Geflogen ist auf einen Baum,//Schon glaubt, dass er ein Vogel wär - //So irrt sich der." Der Frosch, der auf der Nase landet.
Wie sagt doch ein guter Freund immer:

„Das Schlimmste, was uns passieren kann, ist, dass wir Erfolg haben.“

Homebrew MIDI Companion Controller for my Launchpad Pro

I have bought a Launchpad Pro, and am still trying to figure out how to play a synthesizer with this thing. (More on this in another post.) It’s like starting over with keyboards, only with a better understanding what this is getting at. Simply great.

One thing I don’t like about the Launchpad is that it may give you velocity and per-note pressure sensitivity – provided your synth is capable of interpreting it – but takes away the traditional performance controls of a synth keyboard: the good old pitch bend and modulation wheels we have seen as our goddamn right as keyboard players ever since they were introduced with the Minimoog.

So I decided to build my own simple Launchpad Companion Controller, based on an Arduino.

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„We apologize for the inconvenience.“

Ford Prefect and Arthur Dent - still from the BBC series

You may know these two gentlemen. If not, grab your VHS player, rent out the BBC’s „Hitchhiker’s Guide“ series, watch. Hurry!


If you have tried to send a message, or use the shop, you may have noticed that it did not work in the last two days – or, you didn’t notice, and are still waiting for an answer. A conflict between the Contact Form 7 plugin, which I have rediscovered, and the WP Cerber security plugin made some readjustments necessary. It should all be fine again now.

On the plus side, I had the opportunity to overhaul my shop pages, so if you are interested in an update for the Akai AX-80 or Kawai SX-240, it is easier to find and order. Concerning the Matrix-6, there is news: A very old bug in the firmware has finally been found and eliminated; it made it impossible to set negative DETUNE (parameter 12) values. Oddly enough, nobody except Gregor from Stereoping ever seems to have noticed, so there is no harm in continuing to use the firmware V2.14.

There is a new version V2.15 though – Bob fixed the bug – so if you feel that you need negative detune values, you may order that. Or you may take the opportunity to buy one of the V2.14 firmware PROMs extra cheap – while stocks last.