Yay! I’ve bought a DIY Minimoog. (And Jenny is going to love it!)

Side view on the right side of a Minimoog panel and keboard: Filter and envelop generator section; output.

Isn’t it GORGEOUS? Classic Minimoog – less of a control panel, more of an erogenous zone for synth nerds. Tell me you don’t want to feel up these knobs! The pure beauty of a one-of-a-kind electronic instrument. The design and the sounds are still in highest demand more than 50 years after its design – and I was pretty sure I’d never, never even be tempted to buy one.

I never even wanted a Minimoog!

Let’s be honest: Moogs are ludicrously overpriced, and overhyped. Not a single classic Moog ladder filter sound you couldn’t do just as well with a modern plugin, or almost any modern hardware. Hey, even the R3 – my most underdog synth – can do pretty decent Moog impressions. And if you are with the “Digital-will-never-sound-like-true-analog” esoterics, there is still the option of Neo Old School: Using the old design with the upsides of modern analog technology. Get yourself a Boog, for fuck’s sake. (And a life.)

Still… as we know, it’s all about the workflow – and about that unique combination of how an instrument looks, feels, and sounds. So when I saw a Moog enclosure and front panel on eBay for a couple of Euros, I could not resist and had to buy it.

“It’s aliiiiive!” – How to give life to an empty corpus

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Repairing your Macbook Air M1 (2020) if the trackpad does not click

Suddenly, the Mac did no longer click with me: The trackpad in my MacBook Air M1 (end-2020) no longer clicked, seemed to have jammed, gave no haptic feedback. I could no longer click any objects on the screen; without an external mouse, the laptop was unusable.

It was quite easy to solve that problem; some short notes might help you if you have a similar problem.

  • Fast fix: Activate “Tap to click”. Get a mouse and go to the Trackpad settings and set “Tap to click”. At least you can use the trackpad now with selecting things bei tapping them instead of clicking them.
  • It might not be the hardware’s fault. I did not realize it at once, but the click you feel when you click the trackpad is not produced by a mechanical spring but by activen electric components – a couple of small electro magnets producing the haptic feedback. This post by pocket-lint.com does a good job explaining the techonology. This means that it might actually a firmware or OS problem. I read that some people had success temporarily disabling all haptic feedback settings; give it a try.
  • It is quite possible to replace the trackpad if necessary. It is not really easy to take a modern Apple device apart, but it is feasible, provided you have the right tools. Remember that Apples patronizing “Genius Bar” technicians might charge you heavily. But: get the tools!
  • The right tools for fixing a Macbook Air. You will need them. I had Torx bits for mobile phone screws anyway and bought some more on Amazon. This is what you need:
    • a Pentalobe-P5 screwdriver for Apples 5-star-hole housing screws
    • a Torx-T4 screwdriver for removing the trackpad cable connector clamp
    • a Torx-T5 screwdriver for the trackpad screws
    • a magnifying glass
    • pincers
    • a box with several compartments to keep the 6 different types of screws apart and safe
    • good workplace conditions – proper lighting, enough space, a workplace mat
  • Taking the Air apart, step by step. ifixit does a brilliant job at explaining and showing every step – have the tutorial on a second screen next to your workplace so that you can look at every step when you need it. Pro tip: Read every step thouroughly before you do it – I didn’t at one point and missed that there are distance shims on top of the trackpad which drop to the floor when you take it out. Some rather undignified crawling ensued.
  • Apple supports your Right to Repair. Seriously. A little bit. „Right-to-repair“ laws have forced Apple to move. If you insist on trying to repair your iDevice, Apple gives you information, tools, and parts – provided that the iDevice is rather recent, and that you live in the US. But to be fair: You can find the comprehensive Macbook Air Servide Manual (PDF) for download. You may also order a replacement trackpad for about $100 in the U.S. Apple’s Service Support draws some criticism for its pricing and for its rather complicated procedures, but it is a start.

In short: This is what I did to get the trackpad working again

  • Bought the tools.
  • Opened the Mac and detached the battery connector. My advice: do that, then reconnect and check whether the trackpad is already working again.
  • Took out the trackpad and gave it some menacing looks, carefully poked at the metal strips, and cleaned what seemed worth cleaning.
  • Cleaned the trackpad bay in the housing to remove any object that might cause problems
  • Reinserted the trackpad. The service manual states that a new trackpad comes with shims in different thicknesses, so I measured the thickness of those I had and found that some were .1mm and some were .15. I inserted the .15mm ones to the front, and the .1mm ones up next to the keyboard.
  • Put everything back together. The critical moments: Reconnecting the battery connector with minmal force. Reconnecting the trackpad’s flat cable to the ZIP connector: open, pull out flat cable, reinsert, close locking mechanism. Reconnect the PCB connector plug for the trackpad next to the battery connector.
  • Triple-checked the connectors, then attached Macbook to power supply and switched it on. Worked.

Work in Progress: Trying out a new shop

Generated and (c) OpenAI Dall-E 2 AI

For years, I have been working with a shop plugin by maennchen1.de, wpShopGermany. It made things a lot easier and was worth its money, but there are a couple of issues I have with it:

  • Ease of use, as in: No…
  • Does not allow me to define the kind of invoice I would like it to
  • Problems with Paypal payments from the UK
  • Really, really dodgy translations.

These issues may not all be wpShopGermany’s fault, to be clear, yet I am trying out WooCommerce – and if that may that cause trouble and/or confusion: Sorry!

Generated by OpenAI’s Dall-E2 AI.

Price raise. Unfortunately.

The global chip crisis has reached my humble shop: When trying to source new programmable ROM chips – nearly all of Bob Grieb’s firmware updates use trusty old Atmel-27C256 PROMs that are still in production – we discovered that they have become much harder to get, and more expensive. Eventually we succeeded in finding a supplier who could help us restock in time, but the chips cost us over one Euro more.

Until further notice we will raise prices for firmware updates by € 1.50 after taxes per chip.

In spite of that: have a good start into 2022, the Year of Hope.

The Noisy One

I’ve won a Dreadbox Typhon in a sweepstake, and it’s bloody brilliant. Like, really, really brilliant! A fun machine with a monster sound and a great concept for real-time sound manipulation and editing. If there wasn’t that nasty problem with digital noise.

Dreadbox Typhon powered from USB hub; preset A1

Just listen to it! It’s wonderful – but you will have noticed the nasty sound on switching it on, and the permanent high-frequency noise. (Oddly enough, it’s no longer in the recording as soon as the sequencer starts, but believe me – it’s there, all of the time.)

Digital noise, for sure.

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Stereoping Hardware Controller for Crumar Bit

Stephan (aka umusic6) did some nice work:

Thanks to his efforts, there is now a Bit Edition of Stereoping’s Synth Controller, for Crumar Bit-01/One/99 with the Tauntek firmware. You can read up on the firmware, or order it, here.

(No, this is not an affiliate link, I have no share in this. But I think it’s a great project.)